Taiwan’s east coast is the best cycling on the island. If you’ve seen photos of the Taiwan KOM or the dramatic cliffs of Taroko Gorge and assumed that’s where the riding peaks, the 175 kilometres of Pacific coastline between Taitung and Hualien will change your mind. This is where most of our clients say the trip came alive, and it’s where we spend the most time on our guided tours.
There are three routes running between Taitung and Hualien, and the real secret to cycling the east coast is knowing which sections to combine. Here’s what each one offers, and how we’d recommend riding them.
Which Direction? South to North
Before anything else: ride from Taitung to Hualien, not the other way around.
For most of the year, and especially during the spring and autumn cycling seasons, the prevailing winds are southerly. That means a tailwind heading north and a headwind heading south. Almost all of our guided east coast tours run south to north for exactly this reason. If you love a headwind, ride the other way. We won’t judge. But we won’t recommend it either.
The Coast Road, Highway 11
Highway 11 follows the Pacific coast for around 175 kilometres, and it is one of those rides that makes you forget you have legs. The Coastal Mountain Range draped in jungle on your left, the Pacific Ocean on your right, and a road that winds past fishing villages, volcanic rock formations, and indigenous communities that have called this coastline home for thousands of years.
The character of the ride changes as you head north. The southern section out of Taitung is gently undulating, golden beaches, palm trees, and a handful of the east coast’s best sightseeing spots: Jialulan Cultural Park, the striking eight-arched Sanxiantai Bridge, and the Baixian Caves. Traffic is light, the gradients are kind, and the riding has a relaxed, tropical quality to it.
North of the Tropic of Cancer, things toughen up. The golden beaches give way to sea cliffs, the undulations become more serious, and there’s a proper climb approaching Hualien at Baqi. Rest stops become less frequent through this section, which is one reason riding with support matters more on the northern stretch. It’s still beautiful, arguably more dramatic than the south, but it asks more of you.
The whole coast road can be ridden in a single day by strong riders. More usually, we break it with an overnight in Chenggong, a small fishing town roughly halfway along the route. Chenggong has one standout quality beyond its location: it specialises in the freshest swordfish sashimi you’ll find anywhere in Asia. If you care about food, and on a cycling trip you should, this is not a stop to skip.
The Rift Valley, Highway 9 and the Country Roads
The second route between Taitung and Hualien heads inland through the East Rift Valley. This is a stunning natural landscape formed thousands of years ago when two tectonic plates pulled apart, leaving an extraordinarily fertile strip of land running north to south, flanked on either side by mountain ranges, the Central Mountain Range to the west and the Coastal Mountain Range to the east.
Highway 9 is the main road through the valley and it’s part of Taiwan’s official Cycling Route 1. We won’t sugarcoat it, Highway 9 itself can be busy. But the valley has a network of beautifully quiet country roads that wind through the foothills, past rice paddies and betel nut plantations, and these are where the best riding is.
The valley covers roughly 160 kilometres from Taitung to Hualien. On most of our tours we’ll cover it over 2-3 days, though there are several stopping places for riders wanting a more relaxed pace. Ruisui is an excellent midpoint, the town is famous for its natural hot springs, and it happens to be home to our absolute favourite restaurant anywhere on the island. Every guided group we run stops here.
Chishan is another option for an overnight in the valley, though it works best if you’re staying inland for the full ride. If you’re planning to combine valley riding with sections of the coast road, Chishan puts you in the wrong position for the crossover.
Route 193, The Secret Route
This is the one the tourist blogs don’t mention.
Route 193 runs through the rift valley but to the east of Highway 9, along the western edge of the Coastal Mountain Range. The northern section in particular is a revelation: virtually no traffic, a smooth road threading through farmland and foothills, and views across the valley to the central mountains that are genuinely astonishing.
If Highway 11 is the postcard and Highway 9 is the practical choice, Route 193 is the insider’s road. It offers the best of the rift valley, the quiet, the scale, the agricultural stillness, without the truck traffic of the main highway. This is the section we build our east coast itineraries around, and it’s the part of the ride our clients talk about most.
Putting It Together, Our Recommendation
On most of our tours, we combine sections of all three routes over 2-3 days. The coast road gives you the Pacific. The rift valley gives you the quiet agricultural landscape. Route 193 gives you the views without the traffic. Which sections we incorporate depends on the group, riding level, interests, how much time we have, but the principle is always the same: the east coast is better when you see both sides of the Coastal Mountain Range, not just one. It’s also one of the highlights of our 14-Day Discover Taiwan tour, which pairs the east coast with the KOM, the south, and Taipei.
A word of caution: we’d strongly advise against attempting to cross the Coastal Mountain Range on Route Blue 30 to link the coast and the valley. It involves a long tunnel that can be extremely dangerous when sea mist sits low and visibility drops. There are safer crossing points, ask locally or get in touch and we’ll advise.
For riders wanting a longer route, the east coast also works as a loop starting and ending in Hualien, heading south through the rift valley and returning north along the coast, or the reverse. This adds distance but gives you the full picture.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take to cycle from Taitung to Hualien? The coast road (Highway 11) is around 175km; the rift valley (Highway 9) is around 160km. Most riders take 2-3 days for either route at a comfortable pace, though strong riders have done the coast road in a single day. Allow extra time if combining sections of both routes, which is what we recommend.
Which direction should you cycle Taiwan’s east coast? South to north, Taitung to Hualien. For most of the year, and especially during the spring and autumn cycling seasons, the prevailing winds blow from the south. Riding northward puts the wind at your back. Almost all of our guided tours run this direction.
Can you cycle both the coast road and the rift valley? Yes, and it’s the best way to experience the east coast. On our tours we typically combine sections over 2-3 days, and a loop starting and ending in Hualien is also possible for riders wanting a longer route.
Is cycling Taiwan’s east coast difficult? The southern coast road and most of the rift valley are gently undulating and manageable for any reasonably fit cyclist. The northern coast road becomes hillier, with a proper climb at Baqi. None of it approaches the difficulty of the Taiwan KOM, this is about endurance and scenery, not steep gradients.
What is the best time of year to cycle Taiwan’s east coast? Spring (March-May) and autumn (October-November). Both offer manageable temperatures, predictable weather, and southerly winds that help riders heading north. See our full season-by-season guide.
Where should you stop overnight on the east coast? Chenggong on the coast road, a fishing town with the best swordfish sashimi in Asia. Ruisui in the rift valley, natural hot springs and outstanding food. Chishan is another valley option if you’re staying inland.
Ready to ride Taiwan’s east coast with local guides who know every road, every restaurant, and every shortcut? Our 5-Day East Coast Rift Valley tour covers the best of all three routes with full support. Or combine the east coast with the rest of the island on our 14-Day Discover Taiwan tour. Drop us a line with your dates and group size and we’ll put a route together. New to the island? Start with our complete guide to cycling in Taiwan.